What a crazy few weeks it has been. We flew to Egypt on the 29th of January expecting to return to the UK on the 10th of February. Other events intervened in the form of a detour around the world for our daughter’s appointment to the Magistrate’s Court of Victoria. Before I left Egypt, my mother became unwell so I stayed on to be with her as she recovered. Jim flew to Brisbane then to Melbourne for the Supreme Court ceremony and to surprise Mum who thought he was in Dorset. We are fed up with aeroplanes and not looking forward to another long flight back to Australia on 15th of March. I hope the only things we have to “beware of” are boredom and lack of sleep.
So much has happened since that I can barely remember arriving in Cairo. We both remember being surprised by the appalling state of the roads and the even worse driving. And that was just on the way from the airport to the hotel. Le Meridien Pyramids Hotel was located within a stone’s throw of the Great Pyramids of Giza. From our room we didn’t have a view of the Pyramids but were amazed to see them so close on the way to breakfast next morning. We generally don’t review hotels but I will just say that while the location is spectacular, Le Meridian Pyramids breakfast should have alerted us to the Cairo chaos outside!
Cairo – Day 1


We are up early and excited to take in the Pyramids, Sphinx and whatever other magnificence awaits. First, though we discover that, despite advice to the contrary, we need Egyptian pounds to pay for entrance fees. Just a hint from an annoyed traveller – when it says that your tour includes “attractions” it doesn’t necessarily mean all of them – or even any of them!! First stop is to an ATM then we find ourselves half an hour later going past our hotel again. Why?? We have travelled and driven ourselves throughout Asia, where the absence of road rules was often interesting but we have NEVER seen anything remotely like Cairo. There are no lane markings so drivers just make up a lane where they want to go. Most of the vehicles are old and not surprisingly scratched and battered all over. It must be horrible to buy a new car knowing it will be damaged in the first week – and nobody is going to exchange names etc. At least we know where all the old Kombi vans in the world go to die. There are hundreds of them being used as semi-official buses everywhere on the streets, each one loaded with 12-15 people. They stop anywhere and everywhere in the middle of the road to pick up and drop off .

The Pyramids of Cheops, Chephren and Mykerinus
We can’t wait to see the iconic Pyramids of Cheops, Chephren and Mykerinus close up and to our delight arrive there early and before the crowds. It is no wonder that people are fascinated by Egyptian history and it is a privilege to finally be here. Jim goes deep into the heart of the Pyramid of Cheops to the burial chamber but it is too narrow and confined for me. His legs are sore the next day from crouching to go through the corridor. All three Pyramids are an awesome sight from a close by viewing area.






The Valley Temple
Next we visit the Valley Temple, a huge funeral complex where the priests mummified the body of King Chephren, owner of the second pyramid at Giza. The Sphinx, with the body of a lion and the head of King Chephren stands guard over the complex. It is close to the pyramids and in fact can be seen in pictures situated in front of the Chephren Pyramid. It is about 4,500 years since the statue was sculpted from a single block of limestone.
The Mystery of the Great Sphinx
After a tasty lunch of local dishes that was supplied by the tour group, we continued to Sakkara, home to Zhoser’s step pyramid constructed in 2700 BC by Imhotep, the Pharoah’s chief architect. This was the template for the construction of all future pyramids including the Great Pyramids of Giza. Recent discoveries here include the tomb of a Prime Minister, a queen’s pyramid and the tomb of the son of a king.

Memphis
From the Step Pyramids to Memphis, the former capital of Ancient Egypt during the Old Kingdom from 2575 BC to 2150 BC. As a cultural center for over 3,000 years of Egyptian history Memphis offers a stunning architectural and artistic experience. Strangely deserted when we were there, many of the artifacts are exposed to the weather and there is little protection from climate or tourists. That said, it was amazing to be able to stroll around this open air museum with little between us and antiquity.
Our wonderful first day in Cairo complete all we wanted was dinner and bed. It is exhausting trying to absorb so much history in one day. I was constantly reminding myself that I was “really here” after so many years reading about and teaching Ancient Egypt to youngsters with varying degrees of enthusiasm. Both from them and me! Tomorrow we are so excited to be going to the Egyptian Museum. Another very early start and let’s hope the breakfast room isn’t quite as crazy.
Some Websites:
The Valley Temple
The Mystery of the Great Sphinx
Photos are amazing Frankie.
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Thanks Sheelagh. See you soon.
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